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    • Watercolour Brushes 
      • Sable
      • Sable Synthetic Mix
      • Synthetic
      • Squirrel, Ox & Goat
    • Oil / Acrylic Brushes 
      • Synthetic
      • Hog
    • Flat Brushes & Mottlers
    • Specialist Brushes 
      • Designer
      • Miniaturist / Model Maker
      • Signwriter
      • Large Area
    • School & Craft Brushes 
      • All Purpose
      • Chinese Painting Brushes
      • Pottery and Ceramic Brushes
      • Stencil Brushes
    • Brush Sets / Bulk Packs
  • Applicators 
    • Palette Kinves
    • Colour Shapers
    • Other Applicators
  • Accessories 
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    • SLBS
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Painter's Guide

How to Choose the Right Artist's Brush: A Beginner's Guide

April 12, 2026

Art student's desk with a selection of artist's brushes for watercolour and oil painting

We get asked this question more than almost any other: "Which brush should I start with?" It's a good question, and the honest answer is: it depends. But don't worry — once you understand a few key principles, it becomes much easier to make a confident choice. Here's what we'd tell a friend who was just starting.


Start with your medium, not your budget

Before anything else, think about what you're painting with. Watercolour, oil, and acrylic paints behave completely differently — and the brushes made for each reflect that.

Watercolour

Watercolour is all about flow and control. You need a brush that can hold a good belly of water and pigment, then release it smoothly as you work across the paper. Watercolour brushes are softer and more flexible than those used for oils — they're designed to glide, not push. The thing to look for is "snap": a good watercolour brush springs back to its point or edge after every stroke. Lose that, and you lose control.

Oil & Acrylic

Thicker paints need more backbone. Oil and acrylic brushes are firmer and more robust — built to move heavy paint around a canvas without collapsing under the pressure. If you're working with acrylics specifically, bear in mind that the paint dries fast and can be tough on natural hair. Synthetics tend to hold up better over time.


Natural hair vs synthetic: what's actually the difference?

This is where a lot of beginners get lost, so let's keep it simple.

Natural hair

Natural fibres have a microscopic structure that helps them hold and release paint in a way synthetics have historically struggled to match. The three you'll encounter most often:

  • Sable — Particularly Kolinsky sable, this is the gold standard for watercolour. The spring, the point, the way it holds a reservoir of paint and releases it evenly — nothing else quite compares. Sable brushes are an investment, but a well-made one, properly cared for, can last years. If you're serious about watercolour, it's worth saving up for at least one good sable round.
  • Squirrel — Softer and more absorbent than sable, with less spring. Not ideal for fine detail, but wonderful for large, fluid washes. Mop brushes are often squirrel, and they're brilliant for laying in big areas of colour quickly.
  • Hog bristle — The classic oil painting brush. Stiff, durable, and excellent for moving thick paint. The natural split ends ("flags") help load and distribute paint evenly across the canvas. If you're starting with oils, a few hog bristle brushes are non-negotiable.

Synthetic

Modern synthetics have come a very long way. The best ones are genuinely impressive — responsive, easy to clean, and far more forgiving with acrylics than natural hair. For beginners, a quality synthetic is often the smartest starting point: you can focus on developing your technique without worrying too much about brush care, and upgrade when you're ready. Many experienced painters use a mix of both.


Brush shapes: what they actually do

Shape determines the mark. Here's a plain-English guide to the ones you'll use most:

Round

The most versatile brush you can own. A good round comes to a fine point, which means it can handle everything from broad washes (using the full belly) to precise detail work (using just the tip). If you're only buying one brush, make it a round. Start with a size 8 or 10 for watercolour, or a 6 or 8 for oils and acrylics.

Flat

Square-edged and confident. Flats are great for bold strokes, filling large areas, and creating clean, sharp edges. Turn one on its side, and you can pull a surprisingly fine line. Useful to have once you're past the very beginning stages.

Filbert

Think of a filbert as a flat with a rounded tip — the best of both worlds. It gives you coverage without hard edges, which makes it particularly good for blending and for painting anything organic: petals, foliage, skin. Very popular with oil and acrylic painters.

Fan

A specialist tool rather than an everyday one. Fan brushes are used for blending, softening edges, and creating texture — grass, hair, tree foliage. Worth having in your kit, but not where we'd suggest you start.

Rigger (or Liner)

Long, thin, and deceptively useful. The rigger gets its name from marine painters who used it to depict the rigging of sailing ships — and that tells you exactly what it's good for: long, continuous, unbroken lines. Branches, grasses, fine lettering, rigging. It holds more paint than you'd expect for its size, which is what lets you pull those long strokes without reloading.


What we'd suggest buying first

You don't need a lot to get started — you need the right things. A small, well-chosen set will serve you far better than a drawer full of brushes you don't understand yet.

  • A medium round (size 8–10 for watercolour; 6–8 for oils/acrylics)
  • A small round (size 2–4) for detail
  • A flat or filbert for broader work
  • A large wash brush or mop if you're working in watercolour

Buy the best quality you can stretch to. One excellent brush will teach you more — and last longer — than five mediocre ones.


Look after them, and they'll look after you

However much you spend, proper care makes a real difference. Rinse thoroughly after every session, reshape the hairs gently with your fingers, and store brushes upright (hair up) or flat — never resting on the bristles. And never leave them standing in water. It sounds obvious, but it's the single most common way brushes get ruined.


Still not sure which brush is right for you? We're always happy to help — drop us a message. With over 20 years of specialist experience, this is exactly the kind of question we love.



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